Is it possible for women and non-citizens to contribute to a revival of ramen in Japan and maintain the success of noodle shops?
Tokyo — Japan’s ubiquitous ramen shops have long served that most-proletarian of dishes at no-frills counters, where customers unceremoniously slurp and gulp their way through boiling-hot bowls of noodles.
But while the ramen joints were long an almost exclusively male domain, the cement-floored greasy spoons of yore are giving way to hip décor, handcrafted crockery, and — hang onto your chopsticks — fusion flavors. And women are lining up.
The emergence of the “Ramen Girls”
The Japanese newspaper Nikkei recently mentioned a growing trend of “girl ramen” among the English-speaking population.
Riona Aizawa, a female guitarist and bar owner in Tokyo, claims to have eaten 461 bowls of ramen last year by herself.
“The flavor of miso hits my tongue right after I experience the rich umami sensation!” gushed the unidentified woman behind the “Delicious Hokkaido” page in a post, clearly enraptured by the deliciousness of ramen.
She passionately described the flavor profile of the soup infused with vegetable paste, praising its lack of aftertaste and the satisfying crunchiness of finely chopped scallions. She also noted how the noodles complemented the aromatic soup with their own unique taste.
In terms of evaluating ramen dishes, female critics pay attention to a variety of factors, including the tenderness of the braised pork and the quality and texture of the noodles. According to online reviews, women tend to prefer lighter broth. They also suggest that any use of lard should be subtle, with small portions gently scattered on top of the broth.
Ramen and romance
Koigaku, a matchmaking platform, offers guidance for those seeking romance on the potential drawbacks and benefits of “ramen dates.” They caution about the possibility of awkward slurping, messy clothes, and strong breath that can occur at ramen shops.
According to the website, with the appropriate plan, even eating ramen can lead to a successful romantic relationship.
Koigaku observes that in recent times, there has been an increase in stylish ramen restaurants that cater to a female clientele.
The website acknowledges the unnoticed advantages of enjoying a date at a Japanese ramen restaurant: “Similar to fast food, reservations are seldom needed at ramen shops, allowing for a swift dining experience.”
Ramen is affordable, costing around ¥1,000 per person (equivalent to less than $7), making it a good option to share without causing conflict and reducing the chances of being run out on the bill.
However, Koigaku recommends avoiding ramen for initial dates. Additionally, diners are cautioned not to wear white jeans.
International noodle appeal
In recent years, the once unassuming noodle has gained a sense of exclusivity thanks to its popularity worldwide. In 2015, a ramen restaurant in Tokyo’s Sugamo district, Tsuta, was awarded the first ever Michelin star for its Shoyu Soba with a hint of black truffle flavor.
Unfortunately, Tsuta is no longer included in the prestigious list. However, the most recent Michelin guide has recognized around twenty other ramen restaurants in Tokyo.
In the year 2013, Japan was not a prominent player in the global tourism industry. However, the country has now experienced a significant rise in popularity and is projected to become one of the top global destinations by 2024, with an estimated 33 million visitors.
The introduction of new chefs and clientele has spurred innovation.
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Catering to non-Japanese palates has driven ramen in new directions, spurring the growth of Halal and vegan alternatives to the traditional pork bone-based noodle soups.
Chefs from other culinary realms have moved onto ramen turf. A trained French chef opened Tokyo’s popular Ebimaru Ramen, where the signature dish is lobster bisque ramen noodles, topped by a baguette slice with a schmear of sour cream.
In the capital’s Shinjuku entertainment area, “Rahmen Eddie” has become as well-known for its pop art decor as it is for its riffs on Japan’s favorite soup, including bowls flavored with unusual ingredients like yuzu and ricotta cheese. It sells a “cappuccino ramen” in a coffee cup (a truffle, cream and porcini concoction for dipping noodles into.)
The news channel, CBS News, was reported by journalist Lucy Craft.
Takanochume’s version of maze-soba is a vibrant dish of noodles and vegetables inspired by pasta primavera, but without broth.
Is the popular noodle dish ramen facing a crisis of meaning and existence?
Steering away from its traditionally masculine image, the ramen industry has introduced unique offerings such as pink-hued noodles and heart-shaped wheat gluten, embracing a more inclusive and diverse approach.
Upscaling and broadening the target audience to include both genders might provide a much-needed solution for certain ramen establishments that are struggling to survive.
A 2013 report by CBS News partner network TBS TV said a ¥700 bowl of ramen earned vendors about ¥410 in profit — a slim margin that has since shrunk thanks to soaring raw material, utility and labor costs to only about ¥200.
According to Tokyo Shoko Research, 2023 was the most challenging year for ramen shops since 2009, with a notable 74 shops shutting down across the country.
Takashi Aoyama/Getty
According to Diamond Online, a business magazine, the competitive and accessible nature of the ramen industry often leads to a high rate of failure, with two-thirds of shops typically closing within three years of opening.
Using pricier ingredients to attract customers will only reduce profits, but with the assistance of women and foreign visitors, the boundaries of what is considered “ramen” are being expanded to preserve this cherished dish.
Source: cbsnews.com